Clotilde Brewster and the Côte d'Azur - Part III
We are pleased to present the third part of a series of four blogposts by Laura Fitzmaurice – author of the forthcoming book Clotilde Brewster: Pioneering Woman Architect – which invite us to join the author as she retraces Brewster's steps through the South of France...
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HANBURY BOTANICAL GARDENS - GIARDINI BOTANICI HANBURY – MORTOLA, ITALY
Although Dr. Bennet's gardens no longer exist, those of his friend and close neighbor, Thomas Hanbury, have survived and are open to the public. Hanbury's gardens, a masterpiece of the Victorian era, offer a rare glimpse into the grandeur of that time, set against the stunning backdrop of the Riviera. One can only imagine the immense wealth required to bring such a vision to life. Hanbury, who originally amassed his fortune through the China tea trade while based in Shanghai, later expanded his wealth as a currency trader and cotton broker.
Figure 20: Illustrated London News depiction of Thomas Hanbury’s Palazzo Orengo, April 08, 1882.
In 1867, Hanbury purchased the Palazzo Orengo estate at La Mortola. The Palazzo was originally built in the 14th century but was restructured and embellished over the following centuries.
Otherwise occupied with his business interests, Thomas Hanbury put his brother Daniel in charge of creating the gardens and developing the grounds. The Illustrated London News in 1882 reported that the estate comprised one hundred acres and occupied ‘almost the entire cape bounding the bay of Mentone on the east.’
Figure 21 & 22: Entry at the top of the Hanbury Botanical Gardens and view down towards the Palazzo Orengo.
The entrance to the gardens is located at the top of the property, and I admit I felt a bit intimidated by the steepness of the descent. Fortunately, the landscape design features sloping and zigzagging paths, along with the stairs that lead down to each level.
As I followed the paths, I soon caught sight of the Palazzo Orengo and the shimmering sea beyond. The property descends just until the land meets the water. I am embarrassed to say that, in general, I cannot identify many tropical plants (and there are over 6,000 different species here[i]) but I found myself captivated by their beauty, arranged to highlight their unique forms. What drew me in most were the garden structures and how the architecture seamlessly interacted with the garden and landscape. With each turn along the path, a beautifully composed view unfolded before me.
Figure 23: Map of the garden paths and avenues.
Figure 24: A grouping of aloes.
Figure 25: Exotic plantings among the native olive trees with the sea as a backdrop.
Figure 26: Interesting groupings of tropical plants.
Figure 27: Signage explaining the history of the Hanbury Botanical Garden.
Figure 28 & 29: The Dragon Fountain, surrounded by papyrus, against a retaining wall.
Grottos and fountains were constructed against the retaining walls, strategically centered on the opposite steps. Informative signage, illustrated with vintage photographs, helps tell the story of these gardens—something that history enthusiasts like me truly appreciate!
Figures 30 & 31: More retaining wall features, fountain and grotto.
Figure 32: The grotto as seen from below.
Figure 33: Pergola, similar to that of those in Dr. Bennet’s garden.
Figures 34 & 35: Pavilion at south terrace facing the sea. Its floor features Victorian tiles typical of England.
Figure 36: Cacti garden at the Palazzo Orengo’s south terrace.
Figure 37 & 38: Plantings at the south terrace of the Palazzo Orengo.
Figure 39: View looking out a ground floor window of the Palazzo Orengo towards the sea.
Figure 40: View from the Palazzo Orengo side terrace.
Figures 41 & 42: Portal into the walled north terrace.
Figure 43: Entry to the Palazzo Orengo from north terrace.
Figure 44, 45 & 46: The Palazzo Orengo front entry is decorated with mosaics
Figure 47: The north terrace was once much grander with an elaborate fountain in the center of the current one and elegant statues.
Figure 48: Signage with vintage photographs of the north terrace.
Figure 49: Japanese temple bell in the north terrace.
Figures 50 & 51: Hanbury’s Mausoleum.
Thomas Hanbury lived at the Palazzo Orengo for the rest of his life, dying in 1907 and his ashes buried in the Mausoleum Moresco designed by architect Pio Soli, located just below the Palazzo.
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NOTES:
[i] UNESCO – Hanbury botanical gardens https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/336/